Semblance and power — Ella Russell

Semblance and Power

A curated exhibition which presents nine pieces of garment design and fashion photography.

“Equilibrium” digital photograph on foam-core. 841mm (W) x 841mm (H) This photograph is a manipulation and distortion of a figure of beauty. The image is symmetrical and symbolises views of an augmented reality. It provides an explicit vision of female beauty being manipulated to portray an ‘ideal look’. Upon manipulation the figure has turned into an entity portraying the realities of pressures in a contemporary society, in the form of beauty. The idea of perfection is disputed.

“In-Your-Face” digital photograph on foam-core, gloss printing. 841mm (W) x 841mm (H) The theme of this work symbolises the repression that feeds a woman’s imagination & capability. The seamless facial features in this piece is inspired by Tyler Shield. The femininity offered through detailed digital manipulation, depicts a celebration of beauty & strength. I hope the viewers of this piece, particularly females, feel connection and see an unapologetic expression offered by a powerful woman.

“Threat to beauty: blurred lines” digital photograph on foam-core. 800mm (W) x 1215mm (H). This piece inspired by the works of the modern fashion photographer and videographer, Alana O’herlihy, exemplifies the theme of cultural transition from the world of masculinity into a potent, feminised philosophy. A paradox is formed in this image as the ‘haute-couture’ bra is created from the production of ‘men’s’ clothing. The poised model demonstrates a sexual and no-fear attitude.

“Corporate Correction” digital photograph on foam-core, gloss printing. 800mm (W) x 1215mm (H). This piece prefaces powerful women in corporate unity, inspired by the work of Jean-Paul Goude and his photography of power women. The ‘belt corset’ in this image represents the curiosity of ‘the powerful woman’. A culture of exuberance & freedom is established by power. Personally, I can relate to flourishing transformations that are occurring in the workplace, in the recent past.

“Doyenne 2: dress shirt” - men’s recycled cotton tuxedo shirts and leather belts. Size 8-10. This feminised garment was created from two men’s shirts. Pleating emphasises the waist using the technique of shirring. Shoulder pads were invisibly stitched & a balloon skirt was created using presson. These stylistic elements radiate pressure for woman to have a perfect body. The belts are a potent symbol of manhood. The combination of women’s & men’s abilities creates power for the modern world.

“Vamp” digital photograph on transparent static vinyl. 800mm (W) x 1215mm (H) Re-vamping, of a working world through increased women participation lays behind this work. The ladder represents the advancement made & the climb that woman still need to make to pursue fairness in the workforce. The suits emphasise the power associated with female youth. Overall, the work is to show the positive changes that have occurred in the recent past. Women embody power in this work.

“Doyenne 3: cropped-suit jacket” - men’s pin-striped suit jacket & pants. Size 8-10. This jacket is inspired by Rei Kawakubo & is intended to embody female liberation. The sleeves are made from pinstriped suit pants. The kimono-like effect creates a sense of luxury, which is associated with the cultured dress. A pleating at the back of the garment were created to tighten the back, feminising the piece. The two materials have been upcycled and re-connected to emphasise a no-waste product.

“Doyenne 4: bra and pants” - pin-striped suit jacket & pants, & satin material Size 8-10. This sensual garment has been created from recycled man’s suit. Specific parts, such as the button-hole from the lapel & the four buttons from the arm cuff, were used to give the bra a masculine appearance. Similarly, the silk green pants were altered. The waist belt from the original suit was added to form coherency throughout the set. Other details were included to augment a stylistic aesthetic.

“Doyenne 1: tie gown” - upcycled silk ties, satin material & a bodice. Size 8-10. This piece is mostly handsewn, involving invisible stitching. The ties are attached to a pre-owned bodice & a navy satin one-seam skirt, which I created. The arrangement of tones & colors was essential to create balanced composition. The ties, transform into an elegant gown, an ironic feminine garment made from men’s suit. This symbolises the shared authority that females & males have over contemporary society.

Curational Rationale

The theme and title of this exhibition is Semblance and Power. Semblance is represented by a Doyenne, which is the most respected women in a particular field, being fashion. For the purpose of my exhibition I have manipulated the meaning to symbolise a woman’s role in modern societies. I have illustrated power in the significance of fashion. This theme was chosen both due to a worldly view on modern societal values and as well as a personal significance to me. I am transitioning into a world of historical change for women, therefore, I want to examine how over the last decade, the role of women in our society has formed, changed and transitioned. There are many inspirational women who have inspired my projects who I have a personal connection to and some whom have passed on their legacy of power and leadership internationally. I find the ideas of fashion and how it portrays personality, status and even art, interesting and so I have attempted to capture the disposition of power in fashion through physical makings and photographs.

The exhibition includes artworks that focus on the power of women and how it can be displayed in a haute couture like appearance. This has been done through two types of mediums being textiles and photography. I have used textiles to form beauty, which was done through techniques of invisible and tailor stitching, pleating, hand and machine sewing, tacking and many more techniques. While thinking about resources for fashion choices, all of the fabrics have been recycled from previous clothes hence I wanted to create a sustainable method of dressmaking. The reused items highlight a symbolism of irony and creates a semblance throughout the fashion. Furthermore the photography of the garments has been printed on a large scale and highly manipulated through the use of Photoshop, specifically, colour enhancement, cloning, healing, merging layers and liquifying. My peers are the young female models who allow me to contemplate their adolescence and positions in a flourishing society. An additional media I have utilised is makeup. I have curated makeup looks and iconic techniques to highlight the model’s feminine features and I have captured this through photography in a variety of styles.

The exhibition will take place in the Hirschfield Mac Centre, it is a rectangular room with moveable panels and windows. The artworks will be grouped by medium and interspersed between each other. Each of the physical garments have a tie to further enhance unity of the collection. I want to show a variety of styles to create an interest and coherency throughout the entire exhibition hence, I displayed the exhibition in a fashion runway style. Where, the garments and photographs will be lined one behind another to create the effect of a haute couture show. This is interesting as it displays power in the fashion industry and how the pieces glide as women are displayed down the ‘runway’.

The artwork that will be seen first is “Doyenne 1: tie gown” a fashion garment. It is my hope that this will help the viewer to have an understanding on the theme and importance of women throughout my exhibition. The artworks in the exhibition will be mounted on the wall, windows and displayed on mannequins to create the runway tutorial look, in order to create a cohesive body of works. The overall experience will be increased by the artworks being viewed in a bright and naturally lit room with roof lights highlighting the garments to show detail.

Ultimately I hope that this exhibition helps the viewer to be stimulated by the gentle power of young women. The pieces show super-beautifying features and are complemented with fashion couture, up-cycling. This explores the transitions associated with a bright future for women in all societies. I want the interesting fashion garments to show emancipation, beauty and strength. I find this empowerment exciting thus I hope that my art can inspire others to question: ‘How do women in the world embody power and how their situation has improved over the last century?’